?? Disintegrating ?? Caudal fin ??

[OrandaLover1028]

So...i have a large (8+inch) Chocolate Oranda that has been losing his dark brown color & replacing it w/ a bright orange. If thatsisnt conserning enough today i noticed where i thought he had lost all pigment on the ends of its caudal fin, it has like "disintergrated" the ends of the fin looks like there is no tissue left between the "spines". He has been very active and eating well but this has me very conserned. As ive said before im still really new and any info or advice you guys have would be greatly apreashated. He has been house with my other orandas for quite sometime now and luckly none of the others are showing any of the same symptoms. :youtellme: ~Lisa~

[suphi]

Post some pics, it's much more helpful to be able to see the problems you described.

[Cindy]

My first guess would be tail rot. First thing as always...Check Water Quality. I like to use Acriflavin and Sea Salt as an initial cure, it generally works pretty good. Pictures would be very helpful.

[OrandaLover1028]

Soooo after a very stressfull few days i think i have a handle on this. Whatever it is is now afecting my other fishies too. :( I went and broke down my big tank n set up a hospital tank for treatment. They recomended tetra "Lifeguard" ans salt treatment too. They ended up showing symptoms of alot of stuff.. :/ Clamped fins, and hemorrhagic septicemia and some kind of fungus too....idk how this happened i havent ever had a prop like this befoe n ive had their tank before this running for a lil over a year before the upgrade. :/ idk so i removed all the gravel from the new tank n cleaned it real well w/ hot water. and refilled keeping a bare bottom and added salt. so we'll see hopefully everyone makes it. :(

[George Ludrosky]

It sounds like the tank setup needed cycled before adding fish. Any new set up needs time to cycle and get the "Good" bacteria to kick in. I have 4 fish that were brought to me with the same symptoms. They cam from a tank that had just been converted to undergravel. It took about a week but they are all doing really Great right now. I used "Fungus ease" from Tricker's and salt.

[suphi]

When your fish is sick it almost always started with poor water quality. Fish may have parasites here and there but if they're healthy there won't be an outbreak. But once water quality deteriorates it brings down immune system and everything starts going south.

Most serious keepers don't use gravel because that's one extra factor to worry about (anaerobic bacteria overgrowth can happen underneath over a long period of time).

Try to keep the water clean with frequent water change (50%+) every few days and minimal feedings. If some of your fish are new they should be treated for fluke because that's quite common in goldfish. :cross_fingers:

[pearlscale_fan]

the vet we took my fish to recommended iodine on the fins, which can be hard to apply, especially without help, you have to smear it on with a q-tip and be careful to keep their heads in the water
that might have worked at first but now with the other symptoms I'd use salt and follow more-experienced-people-than-me's advice
honestly this sounds like carp pox, which is what my fish had, it's herpetic and pretty nasty, but you can keep it under control by raising water temperature to 80 degrees F
before you do this try the other stuff and always keep it on hand if it does turn out to be carp pox

[Cincy Ranchu]

I read this thread and am afraid that no one should be giving any advice on this one.

Just from the description(s), it could be color change, bad water, fin rot, advanced ich or most probably costia.

Riddle me this;

Size of tank
number of fish
what is in the tank
how often do you change water?
Ammonia content.

Where are the pictures?

Acryflavin is really harsh and generally cures protozonas but often results in dropsy with in 6 months.:badidea:

Change water daily (50%) for three days, salt content should be repalced ( 2 TBS) per gallon. Wash filter....Slow down,,,:exact:

[OrandaLover1028]

I read this thread and am afraid that no one should be giving any advice on this one.

Just from the description(s), it could be color change, bad water, fin rot, advanced ich or most probably costia.

Riddle me this;

Size of tank
number of fish
what is in the tank
how often do you change water?
Ammonia content.

Where are the pictures?

Acryflavin is really harsh and generally cures protozonas but often results in dropsy with in 6 months.:badidea:

Change water daily (50%) for three days, salt content should be repalced ( 2 TBS) per gallon. Wash filter....Slow down,,,:exact:



Thank you for your consern cindy. :) and to answer a few of thoes questions

Its a 75gal aquarium
It had 4 orandas of various size n age and 1 2-3yr old commet and two golfball size snails.
Water changes weekly and there was a spike in the amonioa levels when it happened. I moved them to smaller 29gal aquariums to treat and used salt and "general cure" after talking some of my problems with a good friend of mine i figured out that it was some kind of parasite. my snails were a new addition to the tank and i noticed the one has two lil clear balls on its shell that are not there now and when i turned on my heater it evidently hatched thoes "eggs" I ended up losing my oldest and youngest oranda & one of my other orandas is still having problems whit its swimbladder. Everyone eles seems to be doing much better. I moved the snails to there own tank and broke down my 75gal removed the gravel and refilled added salt and im recycelingthe tank. I still have several weeks before it will be ready to be stocked. Is there anything eles i should do to make sure i got all the parsites n their eggs? My friend told me to spike the temp to make sure i "hatched any eggs that may have been missed and salt salt salt. My surviving fish are looking better everyday. Ill post pics of one of the orandas that passed later today. thanx again everyone!